outings

On Saturday, my fellow resident artist, Anja, invited me to visit the sauna on Kaartusjärvi [järvi is lake in Finnish]. It was about 30 minutes along mostly empty main roads, then icy back roads to the lake's edge. It was a warm day, about -1ºC/30ºF, and the lake water was about the same.

We entered the sauna, and were instantly covered in sweat. There is no warning for the unrelenting fog of heat that hits you right in the face. It is true that sauna is the place where Finns socialize. Everyone was chatty and quick to laugh; cross-cultural camaraderie happens fast in the intense environment. Once I was accustomed to the temperature on the lowest bench, I hopped up to the top tier where it gets hottest. A seasoned sauna-goer ladled water onto the rocks, the steam rose and assaulted us. This sort of heat causes all sorts of reflex actions; your eyes close to protect themselves, your heart-rate increases and makes you want to breathe heavily, but this is impossible because the air is so thick. Every time the steam rises, it is like a wave, which crests with a heat that would peel skin if it were not so humid. I did not get a perfect read on the thermometer, but I believe it was between 80ºC and 85ºC.

Kaartusjärvi pier around 16:30

After twenty minutes or so, thoroughly exhausted, we ran outside and down to the lake. There was a hole cut in the ice, and ladders descending from a little pier. At this point, adrenaline helps. I jumped in, submerged to the neck, and treaded water for a few seconds. The extreme change in temperature has a regulating effect, and even after one round of hot and cold, you can feel your muscles release tensions you didn't know they had. Another two rounds of sauna and icy water, and we were ready to head home.

Sunday was uneventful, but Monday I was to have my first Finnish language lesson at Alajärven Lukio, the senior high school. I did a little food shopping first, then met the other students and our teacher Johanna. The instruction is only in Finnish [and gestures], which is a good challenge. Luckily, our lesson was structured around time, and I do know the numbers 1-100, so I had a leg up. The walk home is about 25 minutes, well lit for most of the way. I passed the outdoor ice rink at the school, and listened for a moment as a group of five skaters took shots and bodychecked one another into the boards. It was like chicken soup for my soul.

Terrible photo of the Alajärven Lukio ice rink, not that you can tell

On Tuesday, a group of us went from the museum to the studio of policeman and outsider artist Tapio Autio. The Altejee-Autio is in the woods by Lappajärvi, high on a hill, and it is like something from a fairytale. There are many buildings and entryways, piled stones and carvings, statues of angels and a tower that stands 16 meters tall overlooking everything. Among the structures is a hunter's cabin full of wood carvings, a room with a steepled roof and stone walls covered with images from the Kalevala, and more dark rooms with wall paintings of biblical stories. There is also a church full of more rock paintings, and apparently more than 50 couples have tied the knot there. Tapio Autio is a religious man, speaks little English, and occasionally performs as a shaman, complete with staff and bear skins over his shoulders. While Tapio's style is not for everyone, I have to admire his 20+ years of dedication to building this place, half primitive commune, half microcosm of clashing spiritual beliefs - worth the trip.

After the blocked entrance, we walked up the hill through gentle snow

One of Tapio Autio's concrete angels

For those interested, here is a link to many more photos on Tapio Autio's website: Ateljee Autio

16 meter observation tower, unfortunately closed on the day

The past few days have been quiet again. Snow falls steadily and often, but not in huge amounts. The warmer weather has been good for walking with minimal layers, even at night, when the sky is a deep red-grey. I am happy with my work, which has been moving steadily now that the cobwebs have been brushed away. Today we bade farewell to Anja, who is leaving early tomorrow to return to Berlin. As for me, tomorrow I will be welcoming a troupe of photographers who wish to see the Villa Nelimarkka in the morning, then I plan to visit the second-hand shop Adeliina for the first time. According to reports, this is basically a garage-sized place full of incredible finds at outrageously low prices. More to follow.

Details from my current large and inexplicably colorful drawing